THE NEW YORK TIMES – There was a time in Hank Kim’s life when eating hot, crisp-fried chicken wings every day was the norm — he could easily down about 20 in a sitting — not least because his family opened a wing shop, Cafe Hot Wing, in 1988.
Another reason he could put away so many? The wings in question were smaller, sharper in flavor, even lighter than their Northern cousins, Buffalo wings.
Much like the Atlanta hot wings of today, these Korean American wings were coated with a red-hot sauce, unbridled in their cayenne flavor and vinegary tang.
One could argue that they were a dialed-up version, with a focused intensity in their blend of hot sauce, spices and pepper. A touch to the lips might make you break a sweat. That’s why they often came with celery and carrot sticks and a cup of blue cheese dip or ranch, to tame the flames.
In 1980s Atlanta, this style of hot wing (and its cooling plate-mates) gained footing as a fast food meal for a growing Korean American community. Unfortunately, these particular wings aren’t around anymore, or at least they’re harder to find. The one surefire way you can taste them today is to make them at home.
You can replicate the crispness of deep-fried wings by roasting them on a hot oiled sheet pan after tossing them with a touch of baking powder and salt.Credit…Mark Weinberg for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.
Over the years, other families, inspired by the success of the Kims’ Riverdale, Ga., shop, started their own.
Jun Yum, Mr. Kim’s cousin, remembers his family opening Cafe Hot Wing 2, in Chamblee, a northeast suburb. Back then, he said, only a few businesses in Atlanta focused on wings: J.R. Crickets, International Cafe and Three Dollar Cafe, among others.
Now, it’s hard to imagine a strip mall without a hot wing shop, whether a mom-and-pop store or a regional chain. But many of the original Korean-owned shops have shuttered.
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Oven-Fried Hot Wings
- Total Time: 1 hour 20 minutes
- Prep Time: 10 minutes
- Cook Time: 1 hour 10 minutes
Ingredients
For the Wings
2 pounds chicken wings, separated into wingettes and drumettes
2 teaspoons baking powder
Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or fine salt
½ cup canola, vegetable or peanut oil
For the Sauce
⅔ cup cayenne-based hot sauce, such as Crystal
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2t easpoons fresh lemon juice
½ to 1teaspoon cayenne pepper, depending on spice preference
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Salt
Ranch or blue cheese dressing and celery and carrot sticks, for serving
Preparation
Step 1
Cook the wings: Position a rack in the center of the oven, place a large rimmed sheet pan on that rack and heat the oven to 450 degrees.
Step 2
Pat the chicken wings dry with paper towels, then toss with the baking powder and 1 teaspoon kosher salt or ¾ teaspoon fine salt.
Step 3
When the oven is heated, carefully remove the hot sheet pan from the oven and add the oil. Pat the chicken wings dry once more, then add to the pan in a single layer. Bake for 30 minutes.
Step 4
Pull the sheet pan out of the oven and carefully flip the chicken. (if needed, loosen them first using a thin spatula, then turn with tongs.)
Step 5
Return to the oven and cook until golden and crisp, another 10 to 20 minutes.
Step 6
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: In a small saucepan or skillet, combine the hot sauce, butter, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, garlic powder, onion powder and black pepper and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant and slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt.
Step 7
Transfer the sauce to a large heatproof bowl, then use tongs to add the wings to the sauce. Toss until coated. Transfer the wings to a platter, and serve with the ranch and vegetable sticks.
